I' m writing a review, or rather an experience, with quite a long gap of time since I bought the printer, 2 years, in this shop, so I can judge how the printer is doing and even though the manufacturer changed the control board from 8bit to 32bit, it' s still the same and this also taking into account what problems the owners of this printer most often solve. In addition to my own printers, I also built several for friends. The ideal print speed is up to 70mm/s. Do not believe the words that the printer does not have basic protection against burn-in, because this function is already turned on by the manufacturer in the printer on 32-bit control boards, but other useful functions are not turned on. After assembly you will have some screws left over, maybe even a cap, that' s normal, they put more of them in there. I recommend getting a better quality micro SD card, but pay attention to the capacity, it is best to buy the same size as the original. I recommend that you study something before buying a printer, you can download the Prusalabs 3D printer manual, and although it is not directly for Ender 3, the basics can be applied to any FDM 3D printer. A 3D printer is not like a printer for printing paper, done in a few seconds, but large things can be printed for dozens of hours or days. When it prints, it does not need to be connected to a PC or easel by a cable, it prints from an SD card, it is a separate machine. The absolute basis is to assemble the frame correctly so that everything is at right angles and to check the already assembled bottom of the printer, some have loose runners, some are too tight, there are eccentric nuts and it is easy to adjust so that everything runs smoothly, easily without excessive effort. There are also these nuts on the x-axis and everything needs to be set correctly so that the axis does not swing or fall on the right side after being loaded with the hot end. It is important to reassemble the hotend itself, there are a number of instructions for this, and you will avoid problems the first time you print. Tighten the belts properly.
After assembling the printer, it is necessary to level the mat using the wheels under the mat (bed), which must be heated to 60°C first with paper and then by printing single-layer squares above the screws, it is unnecessary to fill the entire surface with some pattern. It is necessary to take into account that the center of the bed will be either the lap or the navel, because physics works here and when heated, the aluminum simply expands and thus the center simply bends, it is not a manufacturing defect. This can be solved by going to a glazier and buying an ordinary sheet of glass or a mirror with dimensions of 235mmx235mmx3 or 4mm for a few crowns, i. e. you throw away the origo printing plastic mat, which is a fart anyway, it is not even necessary to buy expensive origo glass from A creality that is just as crooked. Quite often at the beginning you will have to deal with the alignment of the pad, because the springs used under the bed are made of mud and will not hold the setting, so it is advisable to replace them with stronger ones, they can also be bought here in the shop, in a package with a better PTFE tube, you just have to in combination with move the limit switch from the height through the glass. In order for the prints to hold well on the mat during printing, applying 3Dlac to glass that has been properly washed in the spring works in such a way that if the mat is heated it holds, and when it cools down, the print can be easily removed. Do not remove finished prints if the mat is on the printer, you decide to level the mat, this is the most common mistake of beginners.
It is necessary to calibrate the extruder steps, a low number is set in the basic settings, there are also many instructions on how to set them.
The problem is the plastic lever on the extruder, it is more than advisable to print a new one as soon as possible, because it will crack relatively soon and in a place that is not very visible and it will start to cause you problems when printing, then you will not be able to print the new one very well.
Then you can print in peace, current slicers have fairly good basic settings for this printer. So just don' t use the slicer from the SD card, but download the latest Ultimaker Cura or Prusaslicer programs, both are also in Czech, so you don' t have to worry. Do not rely on the function to resume printing after a power failure. This does not work well on any printer, not only on Ender, and it is due to the fact that the printers do not remember absolutely exactly the current position of the nozzle on the printout, but the printer only writes the position of the nozzle to the SD card at the start of printing a new layer, and after resuming printing, this it skips the entire layer and continues with the next one, and this is so that the nozzle does not rub in the printed layer. In addition, in the event of a power failure, the nozzle stops immediately and before it has time to cool down, a hole is made in the already printed, nothing nice if it happens on the outer perimeter and she will also know the missing layer there. And quite this function reliably destroys the SD card by constantly erasing and writing data.
The printer prints perfectly fine even in the basics. The most common mistake of beginners is that as soon as they look around a little after a few days, they start remodeling something on the printer, they want to be IN immediately and have what others have on the printer without finding out what it brings and what was the reason for the remodeling. As soon as you reach into the printer, at that moment forget that any claim will be accepted, there is a problem if you flash even the printer' s firmware to turn on some functions that the manufacturer did not put there in the beginning, so even the extended warranty makes absolutely no sense.
Very soon the noise of the printer will start to bother you. When printing, it simply plays like a bottle, thanks to the used drivers on the control board. Replacing the board with a higher quality and mainly quiet one is easy, just don' t use the silent board from Crality, because they are much better and mainly problem-free, they don' t overheat and have some extra functions. So it' s clear that the guarantee again is fine.
Then the noise of the fans starts to bother you, they can also be replaced, it is more complicated due to the 24V printer power supply, but it can be done too.
In terms of price/performance ratio, this is an unbeatable printer, and even compared to the newer version of the Ender3 V2, it is easy to upgrade and if you take it from a financial point of view, you won' t even come close to the price of the V2 and you will be better off.
Today, I already have the printer quite remodeled, a different control board, a different extruder, silent fans, from the point of view of more convenient control, a different display that also enables other functions, a modified hotend. The printer runs fine and I' m not messing with it like some owners who rebuilt the printer without thinking and now don' t know what to do with it, not every improvement is good and often they are dead ends. I only gave 4 stars, because although I recommend the printer, it also has shortcomings, even if they can be solved in the form of DoDo.