How to Build a HiFi System
Modern HiFi systems combine a stylish, well-crafted design with high-quality audio. Thus, modern speakers can become a tasteful part of the interior décor and not just a mere tool for music playback. But what components should you choose to make sure you get the results you want? Read on to find out.
A few short tips to get you started:
- Start with a stereo receiver and speakers; you can buy the rest of the components later.
- The setup should be qualitatively balanced.
- Proper placement of speakers is often more important than their price tag.
- In the price category under 10,000 CZK, bookshelf speakers will give you much better sound than column ones.
- Amplifiers and signal sources (players) affect the nuances and texture of the audio, but speakers are the most important.
- Stereo receivers offer significantly better audio than multi-channel (AV) receivers of the same price.
- Turntables with piezoelectric (ceramic/crystal) cartridges have relatively poor audio quality and they also damage the vinyl surface.
Some HiFi tips according to intended usage
HiFi Systems for Music Streaming
Want to listen to Spotify, Deezer, Tidal, Google or Apple Music, or play content from your home network or Internet radio? A streaming focused system should cover your needs.
Budget setup for casual music fans (about 10,000 CZK)
If your budget is limited, you should opt for active speakers that you can pair with Google Chromecast Audio / iEAST M5 Connect for wireless streaming. Many active speaker sets also some with a remote, so you can control the volume from the comfort of your couch.
Basic component setup (about 15,000 CZK)
Fifteen thousand is the rough starting point, where you can combine a stereo amplifier, Chromecast audio / iEAST M5 Connect, and some solid bookshelf speakers. If you save up some money in the future, you can expand your system with a full-fledged HiFi network audio player.
Ideal streaming setup (about 20,000 CZK)
You can buy a great stereo receiver packed with network features for as little as 10,000 CZK. Then all you need is a set of high-quality bookshelf or column speakers (get ready to pay 5,000 extra for those), and you have a fine-tuned system for music playback from all network services, TV, and other sources.
HiFi Turntable Setups
Do you want to listen almost exclusively to vinyl and don't care about other music formats? If so, forget about those “all-in-one” turntables—their audio reproduction quality is poor and they will damage your vinyl records.
Budget setup for casual music fans (under 10,000 CZK)
The basic building block of this system is a good turntable with an MM-type cartridge and LINE output (you need it for the preamplifier); just connect it directly to your active speakers and voilà, you’ve got a budget HiFi system :-).
Basic HiFi setup (under 15,000 CZK)
In this case, you need a turntable with an MM-type cartridge, a stereo amplifier, and some good passive bookshelf speakers. Just remember that your turntable or amplifier must have a built-in turntable preamp. If you are a fan of minimalist solutions, you can get a Pro-Ject Juke Box E—then the only other thing you need are speakers. It should be noted, however, that this option is barely any less expensive than the combo of Pro-Ject Primary (on which it is based) and some basic stereo amplifier.
Ideal HiFi turntable setup (under 20,000 CZK)
If you want something better, choose a turntable that not only has a MM cartridge, but a detachable—and therefore replaceable—MM cartridge. Your turntable will then last longer and you will have the opportunity to experiment with audio reproduction by using different cartridges. The rest of the system will be the same as in the previous paragraph. Once again, if you opt for column speakers, you'll need to budget about 5,000 CZK extra. The price will also go up if you decide to add an external preamplifier. But there’s no need to rush—you can always buy it later.
General Tips on How to Put Together a HiFi Setup
No matter what setup you want to create, its individual components should be well-balanced. If you are putting together a HiFi system from components made by the same brand, your job will be a bit easier, because the components are all numbered (amplifier/CD player/network player, etc.). However, if you want to mix and match components from different brands, you can use the chart below as a guide.
| HiFi\Price | Column/Bookshelf Speakers | Network Stereo Receiver/Stereo Amplifier | Turntable | Network Audio Player* | CD Player |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Budget | 10,000/5,000 CZK | 10,000/5,000 CZK | 5,000 CZK | 1,000 CZK (Chromecast Audio) | 5,000 CZK |
| Standard | 20,000/10,000 CZK | 15,000/10,000 CZK | 10,000 CZK | 10–15,000 CZK (depending on the features) | 10,000 CZK |
| High End | 30,000/15,000 CZK | 20,000/15,000 CZK | 15,000 CZK | 15–20,000 CZK (depending on the features) | 15,000 CZK |
| Proportionally in % | 100%/50% | 100%/ 50% | 50–75% | 50–100% (depending on the features) | 50% |
Speakers (Speaker Systems)
Speakers are usually the first part of your HiFi system that every guest will notice. Unless you have an empty apartment currently in the need of furnishing, consider well how much space you have available for the speakers and where. There is nothing worse than having a pair of bookshelf speakers stuck on a cluttered library shelf or column speakers pathetically hidden in cramped corners.
Bookshelf, Column, or Active Speakers?
Column Speakers
Column speakers require a relatively large amount of free space around them (at least 20cm from the wall and 50cm from the corner of the room). Moreover, they are not suitable for small rooms up to 15 square meters in size. But if you give them enough space, you will get that “big sound”—with symphonic compositions, for example—that no bookshelf speakers can provide (at least not without a subwoofer).
Pros and Cons
- Stronger bass performance than with bookshelf setups
- You don't need any shelves—just put the speakers on the floor
- They are heavier, making them less likely to tip over if something bumps against them
- You really get a really stylish piece of furniture
- In cramped spaces, the bass can become a rather unpleasant wall of sound
- Not suitable for small rooms (under 15m2)
- Relatively higher price compared to bookshelf speakers of the same quality
Bookshelf Speakers
Bookshelf speakers have one indisputable advantage—they usually contain only two drivers, and even if you give them a very budget crossover, they can handle it better than most speakers with multiple drivers. If you are planning to buy bookshelf speakers, it’s generally better to stick to the type with one tweeter and one mid-bass driver. It’s a tried and true design that provides an even and balanced performance. If you are looking for a bookshelf speaker with some nice bass, choose a model with a large mid-bass driver (min. 6.5"/165mm).
Pros and Cons
- Solid audio performance for an affordable price (about 5,000 CZK)
- Various positioning options (on a stand, on a piece of furniture, mounted)
- The sound should remain decent enough even if you place them badly
- It's easier to match two drivers than multiple
- Guitars, violins and other acoustic instruments often sound best with a pair of good bookshelf speakers
- Not great for really deep bass below 50 Hz
- Too weak for large rooms (over 30 m2)
Active Speakers
Active speakers are rarely the first choice for most users, undeservedly so. If you know you will only listen to music from a couple of sources (up to 3) and have little space for a standard amplifier, they can be really useful. People typically look for speakers they could connect to their turntable or something to play music from their phones and tablets via Bluetooth and in this case, active speakers are a great solution. It doesn't even matter if your turntable or active speaker does not include an MM/MC cartridge preamplifier, since it can be purchased separately.
Pros and Cons
- A 2-in-1 combo of an amplifier and speakers for a very affordable price
- Often include Bluetooth for wireless transmission
- Save space in smaller rooms
- Sometimes include a remote control
- Solid performance that won’t empty your wallet
- Typically don’t allow you to connect more than 2-3 sources
- Manufactured almost exclusively as a 2-way bookshelf model
- The amplifier and speakers are packed into a single device
Key Factors When Choosing Your Speakers
The listed frequency range is less important than the number of drivers
Since most manufacturers list frequency characteristics under different conditions, it is advisable to choose speakers by comparing the more “physical” parameters instead. So, if one speaker system has only one woofer and the other has two or three, you can generally expect that the latter will have better bass.
The woofer surface area is also important. The reason for this is that for deep frequencies, the speaker system has to move a relatively large amount of air. This means an 8" (200mm) bass speaker can pull off deeper frequencies than a 6.5" (165mm) one. There is some equivalency with other diameters as well. If one system has an 8" woofer and the other has 2 × 6.5", the net surface area would put the 6.5" model on top, but usually it’s more like 50/50.
In real life it gets much more complicated, because the driver sensitivity or rigidity, enclosure volume, and other parameters also play a role. Ultimately, you have to hear them to find out.
Weight
Weight, on the other hand, can be a relatively good indicator of how rigid the enclosure is and how much thought the manufacturer has put into the design. A rigid enclosure is always a good thing because it minimises the parasitic resonance you don't want to hear. Of course, it is always advisable to compare only the weight of comparatively equal speakers.
FAQ
More ways, more music?
Absolutely not. That only determines on how many parts the crossover splits the frequency of the amplifier output before sending it to the drivers. A 2-way system can contain two midwoofers and a tweeter (the so-called D'Appolito design) and play more powerful bass than some random 3-way box. Our advice is: If you don’t know your crossovers, the ways don’t really matter.
Let’s say I have a 2 × 200W amplifier and 2 × 100W speakers. Will this destroy my speakers?
You can destroy pretty much any speakers, but usually not in normal use. If you are listening to music with a strong amplifier, you will notice that the speakers are overloaded by the audio distortion. Sometimes the problem is actually quite the opposite. If you have a very weak amplifier (e.g. 2 × 25W) and push it to the max, it can go into “clipping” while playing, which can destroy the speakers almost instantly.
Subwoofers
Subwoofers are amazing if you want high-quality stereo audio. Just make sure to avoid the cheapest models that can handle movie explosions and little else. Good subwoofers start at around 8,000 CZK. However, keep in mind that you can’t pair a subwoofer with tiny 4" mid-bass bookshelf speakers and get full-fledged sound without breaking the stereo spectrum. The human ear stops perceiving directionality at 50 to 60 Hz, so your bookshelf speakers should preferably have the range to somewhere around 70 Hz (-3 dB) as well.
Key Factors When Choosing Your Subwoofer
Bass speaker size
For deep bass the speaker has to move a large amount of air. If you take your music seriously, we recommend to start with a speaker diaphragm of at least 10" (250mm). Another factor is the power of the built-in amplifier. Unsurprisingly, the higher the better.
Amplifier connection options
If you are buying an amplifier or receiver and planning to add a subwoofer to your speakers in the future, make sure the amplifier or receiver has a low-frequency pre-amp output (usually listed as subwoofer/sub pre-out). You connect it to the subwoofer using a cinch cable and the low frequency input (labelled LFE/LF in). Some subwoofers have low-frequency inputs for both right and left channels, so you can connect any pre-out and they combine the signals. If your amplifier has a mono subwoofer pre-out, it is usually recommended to connect it to the left (L) channel on the subwoofer.
Some subwoofers can also be connected to an amplifier signal using conventional speaker cables. This works by directing the signal from the amp speaker terminals to the subwoofer input speaker terminals and then connecting the speakers to the subwoofer output terminals. The subwoofer then filters out the bass frequencies automatically, relieving the speaker load. However, this connection is only recommended if you can’t use a cinch cable (pre-out to LFE).
Crossover frequency/low-pass filter
This specifies what frequency the subwoofer will reproduce. If you don’t have any measuring equipment, you can set the frequency to the lower value of the main speaker frequency range within a tolerance of +/-3 dB and then adjust it more precisely after you hear the output. It is important that you only set the frequency once. Particularly for AV receivers, the receiver can set the optimum frequency automatically with mic-assisted calibration. In this case, it is ideal to keep the low pass filter on the subwoofer at its maximum and let the subwoofer handle the rest.
Phase switch
The phase determines when you hear the audio signal. If you have the crossover frequency set correctly and still feel that the bass comes to you sooner or later than the sound from the main speakers, you need to switch the phase. The phase switch usually allows two positions to be set, basic (0°) and inverted (180°). Selected models have even four positions. The principle is always the same—ensuring that the sound from the subwoofer gets to you at the same time as the sound from the main speakers.
Gain
Each speaker has a different sensitivity, so you need to adjust the volume of the subwoofer to match your setup. To do this, use the Gain/Volume control.
Auto power switch
You can use this to avoid having to turn the subwoofers on and off manually. The system turns the subwoofer on when it detects the signal and turns it off after a few minutes without signal. You can activate this function with a switch whose second position is usually "off".
Stereo Receivers
Few people buy classical stereo amplifiers nowadays. The reason is obvious—stereo receivers offer the same sound quality, but also include FM/DAB+ tuners, internet radio, Deezer, Spotify, and Tidal streaming services and more. You connect them to your home network via WiFi and you can usually play music via Bluetooth. Stereo receivers usually feature digital and analog inputs, so you can easily connect them to modern TVs, game consoles, or various players. The number of features of course influences the price, so basic models have only FM radio, while the most ones include everything you could possibly think of.
Key Factors When Choosing Your Stereo Receiver
Streaming services (Spotify, Deezer, Tidal etc.) and internet radio
Built-in clients for listening to music services let you play almost any content. You need them if you want to avoid bothering with any network player other than the receiver. You can find almost any type of content on internet radio stations.
Google Cast
The receiver has a built-in Google/ChromeCast client, which means you can enjoy all the features and apps that the standalone ChromeCast Audio has.
HDMI connectors
HDMI is the only digital connector that can carry HD surround sound formats. Although this function is not strictly necessary, you can, for example, use the receiver as a hub to link a single HDMI cable to the TV and let the receiver combine signals from your gaming consoles and various players. You can then use the ARC to output audio from the TV to the receiver using the same cable.
Digital optical and coaxial connector
You can connect a TV, gaming consoles, and various players with these, especially if the receiver doesn’t have HDMI ports.
FAQ
What makes a stereo receiver better than a multi-channel AV receiver?
From a layman's point of view, multi-channel receivers may have multiple functions, great performance and you can connect 5, 7 or more speakers to them. The trick, however, is that under the pressure to integrate all kinds of video processing systems, the quality of the amplification part is out of the question with multi-channel receivers.
It often happens that a multi-channel receiver has worse quality / performance parameters than a comparable stereo receiver, even if you combine all the channels of the AV receiver together (for example, the capacity of the filter capacitors for the entire amplification section). Another thing is that if a multichannel receiver specifies, for example, 5 × 100 W, this does not mean that the receiver can produce 500 W. If you send 100 W to the front speakers, you may have less than half the declared power on the other channels. Therefore, if sound quality is your priority, avoid multi-channel receivers.
Should I buy a stereo receiver or an integrated amplifier?
Well, it depends. The stereo receiver is undoubtedly cheaper than a combination of a conventional amplifier and a network audio player. But if you already have a high-quality amplifier that you are satisfied with or you like the option to occasionally replace individual components, you can easily use a separate amplifier combined with a network audio player. Of course, you can also be a staunch opponent of wireless audio streaming, perfectly content to have just an amplifier and a CD player/turntable. In so, you can easily skip the stereo receiver.
What about the impedance of the connected speakers?
Impedance is essentially resistance. Amplifiers and receivers have labels at the speaker terminals that tell you what the minimum resistance of the connected speaker systems must be to avoid damaging the amplifier and potentially even the speakers. Usually it looks like this:
Some amplifiers/receivers have a 4/8 ohm switch. It is always necessary to switch them to the position corresponding to the impedance of the connected speakers. If the speakers are 4-8 ohm or 6 ohm, always switch the amplifier/receiver to the lower value (4 ohm).
Stereo Amplifiers (Integrated Amplifiers)
Stereo amplifiers amplify the signal from a variety of players and then send it to the speakers. Stereo receivers are increasingly stealing their market share, though there is still a considerable number of people who prefer to keep their components separate (amplifier + network audio player) or simply listen to vinyl records exclusively. If you belong to either of these groups, getting a “pure” integrated amplifier is a great choice.
Key Factors When Choosing Your Stereo Amplifier
RMS / dynamic performance
Performance is generally not a key parameter, especially for normal home listening. In addition, manufacturers often report performance under different conditions, so you can get the most accurate comparison when comparing models within a single brand. On the other hand, higher models usually also have better internal design and individual components, so you can hear the difference between a higher (higher performance) and a lower model without playing significantly loud.
If you still want to compare performance, make sure you compare RMS against RMS, IHF against IHF, and so on. Of course, all at the same impedance and with the same distortion (THD).
Phono MM
If you are buying a high-quality stereo amplifier, it’s very likely that you are also getting a high-quality turntable with a replaceable MM cartridge. However, audiophile devices (such as Pro-ject) don’t have a built-in line-level preamplifier. The only input where such a turntable will work without an external preamp is Phono MM.
Digital inputs
These are especially useful for connecting modern flat-screen TVs, but can also be used for CD or network audio players and other similar components. If your amplifier or your TV doesn’t have digital connectors, you will need to use an external converter (DAC).
Tone correction, Loudness, Source Direct and Tone Defeat
You can use tone correction to customise the sound output of your speakers. Loudness are preset tone corrections that are used in low-volume playback and are activated with a press of a button. Source Direct and Tone Defeat, on the other hand, is a button that instantly disables tone correction (the signal bypasses it completely).
Active subwoofer output (sub pre-out)
If you plan to purchase an active subwoofer in the future, choose an amplifier that includes a subwoofer pre-out.
FAQ
Should I buy a stereo receiver or an integrated amplifier?
Well, it depends. The stereo receiver is undoubtedly cheaper than a combination of a conventional amplifier and a network audio player. But if you already have a high-quality amplifier that you are satisfied with or you like the option to occasionally replace individual components, you can easily use a separate amplifier combined with a network audio player. Of course, you can also be a staunch opponent of wireless audio streaming, perfectly content to have just an amplifier and a CD player/turntable. In so, you can easily skip the stereo receiver.
What about the impedance of the connected speakers?
Impedance is essentially resistance. Amplifiers and receivers have labels at the speaker terminals that tell you what the minimum resistance of the connected speaker systems must be to avoid damaging the amplifier and potentially even the speakers. Usually it looks like this:
Some amplifiers / receivers have a 4/8 ohm switch. It is always necessary to switch them to the position corresponding to the impedance of the connected speakers. If the speakers are 4-8 ohm or 6 ohm, always switch the amplifier / receiver to a lower value (4 ohm).
Turntables
The Czech Republic has a long tradition in the of HiFi turntable production, which is now carried by the company Pro-Ject Litovel (former Tesla). So if you're looking for a turntable that meets all the requirements for a proper HiFi experience, you won’t regret getting a Pro-Ject turntable.
Key Factors When Choosing Your HiFi Turntable
Cartridge
If you want good sound, don’t even think about buying a turntable with a piezoelectric (ceramic/crystal) cartridge. This type has poor audio performance and due to increased downforce, it will quite literally carve grooves into your vinyl. Automatic turntables with the MM cartridge are undoubtedly better, but you have to keep in mind that the cartridge is often an integral (non-detachable) part of the tone arm. You can replace the stylus, but once the cartridge breaks down, you will probably have to throw out the whole turntable.
If you want avoid this, choose a turntable that not only has the MM cartridge, but also one where the cartridge is detachable from the tone arm and therefore replaceable. Your turntable will last you longer and you will have the opportunity to experiment with the audio output by trying out different cartridges.
Turntable control
The highest quality HiFi turntables are fully manual, which means it’s up to you to start and stop the playback. The turntable does not turn off even at the end of the record and keeps turning until you power it down yourself. In the mid-range category, you will also find semi-automatic models, which means that at the end of the record the turntable is turned off or the tone arm is raised or returns to the arm rest. The only thing you have to do manually is start the playback and lower the tone arm on the record. Automatic turntables usually aren’t great when it comes to audio quality and are not suitable for HiFi setups. But if you do get one, it will be indeed fully automatic—you just press the start button and the turntable will do the rest.
Turntable drive
The direct-drive system is used especially for DJ turntables, where it’s the only applicable solution due to precise speed control, strong torque needed for scratching, and sensitive parameter setup options. However, it’s not very suitable for HiFi turntables for home use because it transmits a relatively large amount of vibration to the record. HiFi turntables therefore use the belt-drive system almost exclusively. If the motor is cleanly separated from the turntable chassis (ideally positioned completely outside the platter), it causes minimal vibration transmission and gives you beautifully clear sound. You do have to replace the drive belt once in a while, though.
FAQ
What speeds should the turntable support?
Both the modern and the vast majority of older vinyl records are compatible with speeds of 33.3 and 45 rpm. These speeds are supported by all turntables. Playback speeds of 78 rpm are only required by old shellac records that were discontinued in the 1960s. Moreover, you usually need a special cartridge or at least a stylus to play them, since 33/45 and 78 rpm records have different grooves.
Do I need a turntable preamp?
MM and MC cartridges create a relatively weak signal and a conventional amplifier or receiver need to have this signal amplified to line level (typical for a CD player or all the other components) in order to process it. Some turntables have a preamp built-in (switched on by moving the slider to the LINE position). If you leave the slider in the PHONO position, or if the turntable does not include a preamp at all, you can use a preamp built-in in select amplifiers and receivers. This input with a turntable preamplifier is labelled PHONO on the amplifier. If neither your turntable nor amplifier has a preamp, you can use an external turntable preamp. This can also be useful when you need extra high-quality preamplification.
Network Audio Players
Network audio players make any stereo amplifier into a smart media centre for playing music from a variety of sources. They also include digital to analog converters with a USB port for asynchronous transfer from a computer and optical or coaxial connector for other sources. Occasionally you can even find a combination of a network player and a CD player.
The purchase price generally rises with the number of features available. So if you stream music only casually, but also want to give your friends and family an option to stream their music from their smartphone or tablet when they visit, you can, for example, get a Google Chromecast Audio/iEAST M5 Connect, which won’t empty your wallet.
Key Factors When Choosing Your Network Audio Player
Streaming services (Spotify, Deezer, Tidal etc.) and internet radio
Built-in clients for music services let you play almost any content. Meanwhile, internet radio stations can provide you with virtually any music genre imaginable.
Built-in Google Cast/ChromeCast
The network player has a built-in Google/ChromeCast client, which means you can enjoy all the capabilities and applications that have separate ChromeCast Audio.
Built-in DAC (DAC)
Some purists don’t consider wireless transmission to be good enough. They are kind of right, because you get the best quality via USB in asynchronous mode, with digital optical and coaxial connection coming second.
USB Type-B ports on the back are usually designed for the computer, while the classic USB-A ports on the front panel are for flash drives. Optical and coaxial connectors are designed mainly for CD players and TVs, though you can also use them with a PC.
FAQ
What gives better sound: WiFi, LAN, USB, or Bluetooth?
Of all the connectivity options listed above, with a typical HiFi setup you will only hear poor audio quality when streaming via Bluetooth. Audiophiles prefer wired asynchronous transfer via USB directly from the computer. But unless your hearing is so sensitive you’re practically a bat, you can easily use WiFi and cable connection via RJ-45 LAN.
What bit depth to choose?
The vast majority of listeners will be content with 192 kHz/24-bit converters. Chances are that you will play all your music files with them and they're good enough for HiFi quality streaming services like Tidal or Deezer. Higher bit depths and DSDs are meant only for the small percentage of the pickiest music connoisseurs. That said, every converter has a slightly different sound, though its effect on the overall performance of the HiFi setup is fairly small.
CD Players
Buying a specialised CD player today may seem a bit anachronistic, but if wireless content streaming just isn’t your cup of tea, the CD player can do a great job. For a reasonable price, it offers high-quality converters and significantly better sound and quieter operation than multipurpose Blu-ray and DVD players. Most models available today can also play MP3 tracks from a USB flash drive. Some models also have a headphone output, so you can listen to music without having to buy an amplifier.
Key Factors When Choosing Your CD Player
Is a CD player better than a universal Blu-ray/DVD player?
With DVD and Blu-ray players, you pay mostly for video processing. If BD/DVD players have any analog audio outputs at all, they tend to be very weak. In other words, if you place an equally expensive CD and Blu-ray player side by side, the specialised CD player will always have much better sound.
Will a CD player play my burned custom CDs?
All currently available CD players can easily handle not only burned audio CDs, but in most cases even burned CDs where the tracks are in the MP3 format.
Cables
When you start building your HiFi setup, you really don’t have to spend thousands on cables. At the same time, buying some shoddy shoelaces for a few crowns probably isn’t a good idea either. Your approach should also depend on whether you are purchasing power, signal, or speaker cables.
Key Factors When Choosing Your HiFi Cables
Speaker cables (diameter and material)
If you are serious about your music listening, avoid CCAW cables (Copper Clad Aluminium Wire)—they are parametrically comparable to copper cables with a diameter half the size, so buying them is usually not worth the price. CCAW cables are easy to identify because they are suspiciously light and have a silvery core.
As the cable length increases, so does its resistance, which should be minimal. Choose conventional copper cables (CU) according to their diameter.
The above applies to stereo listening. If you are buying cables for connecting your secondary home theatre speakers or some additional “backdrop” speakers, for example in the kitchen, large diameters aren’t necessary. A simple copper (CU) cable with a 1.5mm2 (up to 10m) or 2.5mm2 (up to 20m) diameter will do. And if you have something where the quality truly doesn’t matter much, you can even use CCAW cables.
Digital signal cables (Optical - TosLink / Coaxial - RCA)
With digital optical cables, any effect on audio transmission is more psychological than real. If you want something better, you can spend a few hundred crowns, but anything more would be a waste of money. Things get more complicated with coaxial cables, since shielding and conductor quality also play their role. Nevertheless, paying more than 1,000 CZK for a cable still won’t make any real difference.
Analog signal cables (RCA - cinch/jack)
If you are determined to spend big on cables, make sure they are analog. A fairly large percentage of hardcore audiophiles even say they can recognise a variety of analog cinch cables by ear. If you don’t want to spend too much but also want to get the full quality, avoid the super cheap junk and buy an RCA cable for a few hundred crows. This should be enough for the vast majority of beginner HiFi audiophiles.
Power cables
You can find the power cord with every HiFi component. But even here, cable manufacturers make special audiophile models for the true connoisseurs. Thing is, you are unlikely to see the benefits of these high-end power cords unless your HiFi setup is stupendously expensive, if at all. The supplied power cords will be more than enough for your first HiFi system. What you should invest in, however, is some high-quality surge protection, which protects the power supply units of individual components and extends their service life.
*If the supplied power cord gets accidentally damaged or lost, you can usually replace it with an ordinary computer power supply cord (desktop PC).FAQ
How long should the cable be?
When it comes to cables, longer doesn’t mean better. If you have measured that you need a 0.75m cinch signal cable and you want to have some space for manoeuvring, buy a 1.5m cable. The ideal cable length is zero and a tangled ball of wire definitely won’t improve the audio quality.
Do stereo speaker cables have to be of the same length?
They really should be, but a slight length difference (up to 10%) won’t do any harm. Readers who like to have everything neat and tidy should also remember that you shouldn’t tie excess cable length into tight, narrow loops—you could theoretically create a coil (high frequency filter).
Glossary - HiFi Components
Active or passive speakers?
Active speakers have a built-in amplifier. Passive, on the contrary, require an external amplifier or receiver.
What is a loudspeaker?
A loudspeaker is actually any box (enclosure) that has more than one driver (electroacoustic transducer). Technically, most speakers would qualify as "loudspeakers". The only exceptions are car coaxial speakers, some portable mobile speakers, and broadband HiFi speakers that use only one driver.
Amplifier and receiver performance
When comparing the performance of two amplifiers from different manufacturers, it's important to be aware of the conditions under which the amplifier achieves its performance. For example, RMS power can only be a fraction of IHF peak power. Also important is the distortion (THD) involved and whether the performance is listed for both/all simultaneously excited channels or only for one.
Acoustic pressure
Acoustic pressure is a measure of the acoustic energy (volume) emitted by a sound source (e.g. speakers). Usually listed in dB. It is important to check the sensitivity parameter (SPL [dB/W/m]) if you want to estimate the volume you can reach with certain speakers.
Maximum speaker output over time (RMS)
The maximum continuous power rating of a speaker is most often hidden under the abbreviation RMS, AES, or the term nominal power. This is the maximum power the speaker can process over time without the risk of damage. Generally, it doesn’t matter if your amplifier has the RMS power higher than the maximum long-term power rating of the speakers. On the other hand, the power reserve may be useful for covering dynamic spikes. However, if you start hearing distortions, it's a hint you should turn down the volume.
Electroacoustic transducer
An electroacoustic transducer is a link in an acoustic chain that actively converts an electrical signal into an acoustic wave (standalone speaker without an enclosure), or vice versa, an acoustic wave into an electrical signal (microphone, sensor, etc)
