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Hello everyone
I bought a turntable for "playing" rather than for playing and also because it is easy to disassemble
- The chassis is made of a wood material similar to fine particleboard. on the one hand it helps the sound, on the other hand the overall mechanical design of the turntable is quite foolish. The motor arm and bearings are on one plate therefore any vibration of the motor and plate is transferred to the arm. another disadvantage is that the rather tight strap pulls the axis of the plate. who then worked on the motorcycle pulley.
the built-in speaker is fine but the sound is transmitted to the whole turntable cabinet and again there is vibration which is transmitted to the needle. For better sound, either an external speaker or an external amplifier or soundbar is better.
- the penetrating chirp in the sound is due to two factors, namely the fact that the motor is underdamped, which is also DC. in addition, the cable routing from the transmission is unshielded
- the plate is also a big problem. my last turntable I built myself and the platter was made by a friend on a lathe from solid duralumin. I then carefully balanced and centered the plate on the razor blades. what's in this turntable reminds me of a beer tray from a lower price point. on the photo it looks amazing in reality it is a lightweight plastic on which is placed a rubber pad (it can be removed) after the first switching on it turned out that the plate is extra crooked so it throws understandably it affects the sound.
- the transducer is magnetodynamic which is a plus and although it is low end even for a layman the comparison with piezo is noticeable in the dynamic range, frequency range of the sound played
- the arm of the transducer is plastic - on the photo it looks like it has the possibility to adjust the pressure of the needle, it is not so it is a fixed "pompom" - in Hi-Fi transducers this part is like a counterweight which can be screwed to adjust the pressure (the principle of lever), the arm does not have antiscating. The lever is quite small. the stroke range is not large, be careful when setting up new plates. It is a semi-atomic in the sense of only stopping the drive of the transition to STAND BY
Caution the arm does not have a locking feature on the stowage mandrel for attachment when carrying
- The instructions were probably written by someone for a different device so understanding the USB, SD or BTH connection by the way the LEDs flash at you doesn't correspond with the instructions so I haven't tested USB recording yet but that's not my priority.
The turntable is equipped with an option to adjust the speed of rotation. it is solved by flashing blue LED and trimmer which tunes the speed by looking at the squares. these are 33 and 1/3 for LP and 45 for SP, depending on the selected speed. Stop. you better not look at it too much just set it up and let it play. if you follow the "squares" you will find that they will still "travel to one side or the other. the result of poor speed stabilization of the turntable and belt drive.
Assessment:
They say that "for the money, about 2,500. what I would expect", but that's a very relative view depending on how long one has been making money at it.
be sure to keep an eye on the particular piece and don't be afraid to return it especially the plate and the features
- the turntable has a cover that is quite tight
it's not a super hifi, but it plays pretty good quality I would compare it to the Tesla school turntable that the music teachers used to torment us with in our youth
for those who make recordings and conversions to MP3 would be better USB OUT to connect a PC and editing program (eg audiocity) in the back there is a hole for this but it is not fitted in this model
List of modifications made and planned (as I wrote I have it for "playing! )
- disassembly and reinstallation of the spindle bearings - there are two of them and you just need to increase the diameter of the bearings by gluing plastic tape
- Aligning the axis of the plate so it doesn't hit the motorcycle pulley
- attaching the suppression capacitor to the motor
- insulated cables from the transmission to the preamplifier and also to the CINCH OUT, unfortunately the shielding cannot be ground
- shielding of the preamplifier board by putting aluminium foil
- planned suspension of each of the components that affect the sound
- chassis bracing
- if I can get the platter from a broken turntable and it is metal, I will replace it, but I will still correspond with the manufacturer for a while.: -)
- switch and connectors for external speakers (the turntable ends up in the cottage)
the cheapest turntable with magnetodynamic transmission
relatively decent sound even with 2x3W
speed control via LED stroiboscope
total leaky cover
BTH
chassis build quality
crooked plate
large clearance of the mandrel bearing
the noise of a motorcycle getting into
belt drive
? I haven't managed to make an MP3 recording yet. but making a gramophone record into an MP3? I don't know who, but then why have a gramo
when finished, it just switches off and doesn't pick up the transmission
slippery speed
light plate
BTH so far only IN
maybe someday I'll figure out how to record MP3s
drivers on the side )this is just a subjective opinion according to the location of each
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